The Three Coconuts

Blog in honor of Mr. Moses, who elliminated homework from our vacation.

Just south of Kailua is Pu'uhonua o Hanaunau also called the Place of Refuge. In ancient times commoners were governed by the kapu system. These were some crazy intricate laws like the lesser men could not walk upon the same ground as the upper classes, men and women could not eat together, your shadow could not fall accross the shadow of an upperclass man or chief. The penalty for breaking any of the llaws was usually the same-- death by club, strangulation, fire or spear.... at least you got a choice. If the offense was severe enough your enitire family would be executed with you. The reason for the kapu was largely to keep the gods

happy so that they did not send tidal waves, lava flows, droughts or earthquakes.... so lawbreakers were dealt with hastily.

Good news though, if you could reach the Place of Refuge the priest would give you some prayers to say and all would be forgiven. This place also worked if you were beaten in battle and could make it here, your persuers (the victors of the battle) would come here and all could be forgiven.... then you could pledge allegience to whoever won the battle and switch teams so to speak. Access to the Refuge was frequently by long swims, and supposedly the favorite queen wife the King Kamehameha 1 once swam miles to get here and hide under a large rock after a fight with her husband. They later reconciled.

The city is protected by a stone wall built in the 1500's without the benefit of mortar. It is 10 feet high and 17 feet thick in most places. The wall seperated the area of refuge from the Ali'i's (chiefs) palace grounds and fish ponds where only the chiefs could fish.

The thatched building is a reconstructed mausoleum Hale-o-Keawe that was to contain the bones of 23 chiefs.

In 1819, after the death of King Kamehameha, the Hawaiians, of their own accord, overthrew their religion, dumped the kapu system and deniedtheir gods. This was before any western missionaries ever came to Hawai'i. It seemed to start with challenges to the endless rules, not so much by Hawaiians as by explorers who were landing on her shores. People like Captain Cook who broke laws unknowingly, witnessed by the Hawaiians, and still lived with no apparant repercussions from the Gods. Hawai'i today seems to be having a resurgence of interest in her heritage. There is increased interest in the old religion, study of the language and culture. There are numerous alters (called lele ho'okau) that are still used for morning prayer, they are covered with lei and other offering tributes. This one is right next to the Little Blue Church in Kona, but they are everywhere up and down the coast.

The Place of Refuge is also known to have a good population of turtles. This guy was sunning on the sand, a behavior that is supposed to be unique to Hawaiian sea turtles. They can't see well above water, but in the water have excellent vision and the ability to make thick tears to help remove debris and extra salt buildup from their eyes. Finally some turtle success!!! But I still want to swim with one.